Sigma 18 35 canon 5d mark iii12/21/2023 ![]() ![]() Maybe I get 2 primes lenses: 15 and 25 mm 1. 35-70mm f / 2.8D 50-51 104 High Dynamic Range Imaging ( HDRI ). Here is a couple pics that might help, look at the corners that are outside the circle on XL, but everything is inside the circle on Ultra. That is why most get Ultra because its pretty idiot proof vs the XL. The difference in extra light between the Ultra & XL is pretty insignificant, but getting a jacked up shot with vignette is a huge problem. That is why the Ultra is overall a better option, you can stick whatever lens you want on and have NO issues, where as the XL is kind of hit and miss depending on the lens. ![]() The Ultra has a smaller hole, and will not cause vignette on any lens. 71, because it has a bigger hole on some lenses it causes vignette. The issue is two fold, one part being Lens the other part being the Sensor. Its clear you don't understand the issues, and others have already said same thing, but you are not hearing what they are saying. On Metabones website, XL is recomennded for full frame ef lenses not the ULTRA one. Yes Ultra is 0,71 while XL is 0,64 (good for e.g. You will not get any Vignette with the ULTRA, but will with the XL. The ULTRA is the one you want, its what I use on my GH5 with the Sigma 18-35. But for solving low light needs of your mFT kit, I'd look to other strategies like the faster 12mm primes. The speedbooster can be a nice solution (I have one of the Metabones ones myself) for leveraging lenses you already own or require for the larger format independent of any incidental value on the smaller format body. Again, I don't know your specific requirements (video?), but it seems to me that if you're going to invest in both formats, you should think about maximizing the unique value of each rather than muddle things by trying to find common lens solutions that end up compromising both formats. Why even bother with a mFT kit under those circumstances? It seems like you're getting the worst of both worlds - poorer low light performance and a lot of weight anyway. If I must change my lense, I will use only a Canon lense. It's also a big lens and when coupled to the GH5 with a Speedbooster really turns the GH5 rig (already large by mFT standards) into quite a large and heavy kit. Just got my 5D Mark III and tried it with my Sigma 70-200 (first version) and the lens will not autofocus. By replacing the 16-35mm with the Sigma 18-35mm, you'll be compromising your use of that lens on the 5Diii due to the vignetting and need to frame for APSc format with that lens (to say nothing of the extra width in FOV you're giving up). I don't know the specifics of your photographic requirements, but your thinking seems odd to me. one last question, does 16-35 works normally with speedbooster ULTRA on GH5 without showing vignette on the borders? Any idea which is most suitable model of speedbooster that can work properly with sigma 18-35 and 24-105 on GH5? SpeedBooster comes in two versions, XL which is recommended for APS lenses (like Sigma 18-35) and ULTRA which is recommended for full frame ones (like Canon 24-105) Then, I can use my 18-35 and 24-105 on both cameras. Of course, with a high quality lens and the right shooting conditions you can expect a much larger output with the use of a lower dpi. so I am thinking to sell my 16-35 EF lens and get the speedbooster EF to M4/3 with Sigma 18-35 F1.8 ART. The EOS 5D Mark III has a full frame 36x24mm sensor holding 22.3 million pixels, with a maximum image size of 5750×3840 pixels, or an enormous 49x33cm as a print. I have a problem with my micro 4/3 lens in low-light since its maximum aperture is 4. And I already have Canon 5D mark iii with 24-105mm (4) and 16-35 (2.8) EF Lenses. ![]() Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.I have GH5 with 12-60 mm Lens (2.8 - 4). If someone came across a similar on their camera, please indicate the model of the camera and lens in conjunction with which such a disgrace occurs. It may also be part of a new way to “fight” third party lenses. Most likely, the camera malfunctions due to the built-in profile of a particular lens. Aberration: OFF, Distortion Correction: OFF, Diffraction Correction: OFF. For example, on a camera Canon EOS 6D Mark II on the menu " Aberra correction the lens”Should be set to Corr. The treatment is quite simple: In the camera menu, disable automatic distortion correction. In all photos in a bunch Canon EOS 6D Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV (and some other similar ones) and the lens Sigma ART 50mm 1: 1.4 DG HSM (and some other similar ones) on open diaphragms dark / translucent appear concentric circles and stripes. This incomplete and rare incompatibility is exactly what manifests itself, as shown in the photo in the title of this post ( enlarge photo). Canon EOS 6D Mark II (and some other similar ones) and the lens Sigma ART 50mm 1: 1.4 DG HSM (and some other similar ones). This is how incomplete camera compatibility is manifested. ![]()
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